The Delpozo Fall/Winter 2017/2018 marks the tenth show and five year anniversary of creative director Josep Font at the helm of the prêt-à-couture brand
For this season, Font speaks of serenity and continuity, represented by Hungarian painter József Rippl-Rónai, member of Les Nabis, a group of Post-Impressionist avant-garde artists in 1890s France, and Swiss sculptor Max Bill, Allianz movement leader for concrete art.
Like Fauvism, where emotion is expressed through color; the Nabis focused on the translation of reality rather than the tangible, and inspires this collections’ calmer and darker color hues: midnight black, dark burgundy, deep blue, chestnut, and dark green. The spirituality of the color palette, boosted with Yves Klein blue*, ivory and amber, is fused with the organic silhouettes taken from Max Bill’s abstract sculptures.
Circular volumes become the highlight of this season: bold yet soft pleats and sleeves curve around the Delpozo woman’s body in flannel wool, embossed jacquard and silk lamé; round gold buckles shine on trousers, tops, jackets, and ankle boots; and the tulip silhouette wraps around shoulders, skirts and cocktail dresses. It is synthesizing at its finest.
The Fall/Winter 2017/2018 collection’s main floral organza print, an abstract floral design created in-house, comes from Rippl-Rónai’s diffused brushstroke.
A blurred version is translated for the merino wool knitwear, with embroidery resembling the reflection of fish scales under the sea, and passifloras and anastasias, bright voluminous colorful flowers.
Calmness is rattled with the embroidered hood knit tops, inspired by the flutter of a hummingbird; bringing movement and texture to Delpozo’s designs. These embroideries are also found in the newly launched Moon bag, a sphere to create continuum under Max Bill’s perspective. The metallic handle inspired from Bill’s renown Möbieus band sculpture.
In the finale, a simple stroke of yellow in the bodice of one of Delpozo’s emblematic silk tulle evening gowns gives the last jolt to overcome the cold winter and keep moving forward.
Delpozo embraces time-honored couture techniques with a modern sensibility to create unique and feminine pieces for the contemporary woman.
A combination of contrasting elements defines the prêt-à- couture house. Delpozo is traditional and modern, organic and architectural, sumptuous and pure.
The hallmarks of the Delpozo atelier include a creative approach to volume, color, and silhouette. Artisan techniques and intricate embroideries are used throughout the collections to create the ethereal and timeless Delpozo aesthetic.
Josep Font was appointed Creative Director of Delpozo in 2012. Originally trained as an architect, he began his career showcasing collections in Barcelona, Madrid, Tokyo and Paris under his eponymous label. Most recently, he was invited to show his couture collections in Paris as a guest member by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.
Josep Font’s designs for Delpozo reflect his architectural training and couture savoir faire.
All images courtesy of Delpozo
*COLOR FACT: International Klein Blue (IKB) is a deep blue hue first mixed by the French artist Yves Klein. IKB’s visual impact comes from its heavy reliance on Ultramarine, as well as Klein’s often thick and textured application of paint to canvas. International Klein Blue (IKB) was developed by Yves Klein in collaboration with Edouard Adam, a Parisian art paint supplier whose shop is still in business on the Boulevard Edgar-Quinet in Montparnasse…READ MORE
Tags: architectural, Color, colorful, dark color hues, Delpozo, evening gowns, fashion, fashion and lifestyle, fashion design, fashion designers, floral, geometry, Josep Font, outerwear, patterns, Top, womenswear, wool, Yves Klein blue