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Giorgio Armani Men's Collection Spring/Summer 2009 |
Fusion of cultures, crossover of tastes, interplay of contrasts: creating an unusual equilibrium between jackets that verge on the formal and comfortable lightweight trousers in shantung. In this juxtaposition of styles that brings to the city a relaxed and elegant savoir vivre, the jacket - always reconstructed but perfectly tailored - favors Prince of Wales checks and chalk stripes, fabrics that may seem traditional but actually emphasize the precise structure of the garment.
Worn over a double breasted waistcoat, maybe with a loose un-tucked shirt or a light chemise in the oriental manner. Perfectly in tune with the lightest of trousers, varying in style from the Indian, to the Balinese or Malaysian, sometimes with printed patterns, always in generous dimensions.
A change of direction is also apparent in the traditional Armani classics, featuring darts for a slim midriff and legs that taper lightly towards the hem, imparting élan to the figure: an effect that is reinforced by the reappraised dimensions of the jacket, slightly shorter and slimmer than recently. Replacing the belt, a casually knotted scarf at the waist adds a witty touch of nonchalance.
Subtle shades of color prevail, including a green that is almost gray, a gray that approaches beige, putty, twine, with softly blended hints of violet and rust, bringing a more intense and stimulating aesthetic quality to this collection. Even the knitwear, including jackets with the relaxed fit of cardigans, displays the same cultural mix, presented in hopsacks and carpet fabrics. Scarves sit lightly on the shoulders - epitomizing the fluid and dashing look of the season. Shoes come in a choice of snake skin, crocodile and woven hopsack, or laced in the oriental style for the ultimate in lightness. |
Emporio Armani Men's Collection Spring/Summer 2009 |
Blue DNA
The genetic code of this Emporio Armani collection is revealed in a palette of pale shades ranging from stormy hues of gray to dark variations of navy blue, possessing the plain austerity of uniforms.
A mental horizon focused on the city, an atmosphere of Nordic Europe, where the contemporary meets the future, the silhouette is now more streamlined, more dynamic: wide trousers, so typically Armani, narrow at the hem, drawn in by two darts. The jacket is reconstructed, but features a small seam on the shoulder that suggests a hand made finish.
Emphasizing the slim look, sleeves are close fitting with a narrow shawl collar. Meticulous linings are piped and edged, creating an overall lightness with delicate materials such as linens treated with new finishes, silk and polyester blends, and shirt material adopted for trousers. Even the leather for bombers and blousons, pierced and displaying heat laser printing for a bark effect, is chosen for its lightweight feel.
The two formal evening wear pieces are set off by neat shirts with starched collars and cuffs or with a contrasting white stripe on the collar, and sometimes with tiny silvered buttons and a high pleated edge: impeccable as always.
Reinforcing the mood of urban restraint, the sportswear fore goes the excessively techno look instead giving way to lightness and a predilection for defined shape, combining parkas and mini-trenches with drawstring Bermudas. An homage to Chanel, possessing the authenticity of a signed work of art, a masculine reprise of the hopsack weave, teamed with floral print Bermudas.
For kite surfing thrills, EA7 offers technical neoprene wet suits specifically conceived for the Californian waves and the mighty ocean. |
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