January 19, 2011 (Rio de Janeiro) - Nica Kessler's catwalk evoked a clear 1970s inspiration, from high-waisted trousers and high necklines or hair and makeup that resembled the set of Charlie's Angels.
Even though the influence was clear, the result was very contemporary and the garments very covetable. The color combination of gray, black, brown, grayish blue, mustard, olive green and dusty pink created very beautiful prints and stylish ensembles overall. The black lace dress was a clear winner, as well as the mustard dress with the grayish blue blouse underneath. The collection sometimes didn't present unity; however, this was a more than offset by very strong and gorgeous garments.
Having only black models on the catwalk, Oestúdio wanted to bring attention to the black heritage in Brazil. Although the main idea behind the collection seemed pretty interesting, the result was lost on the construction of the garments. A palette of black, red and neutrals didn't create the effect we'd normally see on a catwalk that wanted to convey African heritage - and neither did the cuts of the clothing. The collection was interesting but it seemed to have suffered in detriment of a focus on the catwalk presentation, which had a live musical presentation, models painted to create an effect of tribal war paint, among others.
From an image of a beetle Andrea Marques created a very feminine collection based on satins, silks, sharp cuts and drapery effects. Most fabrics used presented a shiny quality to them, evoking the sheen that a beetle's outer skeleton has. The overall effect was of a powerful 1940s woman reborn in current times - a lot of emphasis on shoulders, high necklines, longer hemlines and sophisticated ensembles. The prints and laser cuts on fabrics also had beetle designs - but all done in a way where this isn't clearly seen unless closely examined. The end of the show presented some prints that seemed unnecessary - the collection was already very strong without them - but overall very powerful and classic.
There is a hype surrounding Lucas Nascimento's name and once you're presented with his catwalk show you understand why. One of the very few designers in Brazil who create fashion, Nascimento impressed with a collection based on the shapes of garments, showcasing a contrast between very structured pieces and very fluid ones. Sometimes it was too much of a sci-fi movie, but most times it was pleasant and the stark contrast between cocoon coats and fluid jumpsuits was brilliant. The use of panels and stripes of fabrics intercalated with transparent fabrics created a tridimensional and very interesting effect on long pencil skirts and dresses. At the end the collection seemed a bit too repetitive - but just a small blip for someone who has a very promising career.
Auslander was one of the most waited-for shows and unfortunately the expectations weren't met. The garments presented were very commercial and seem to have been created from past best-sellers. If it weren't from the colour palette - composed of reds, yellows, oranges, grays, browns and neutrals - they wouldn't have any connection between them. The presence of mini-skirts for women seemed out of context, given that fashion seems to be moving towards a more contrived look. The menswear pieces were more in tune with each other, albeit having a lot of checkered shirts and other influences that also seem dated. Overall it was an unimaginative collection with its foot set on the selling figures.
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